Thursday, June 28, 2012

iPods, Pacemakers, and Interference

A recent news article suggested that pacemaker patients who used transported music players sometimes encountered a problem with their pacemakers called interference. The problem wasn't with the music player itself, but rather with the earbuds. Earbuds stored close to the implanted pacemaker can interfere with the pacemaker.

The surprising aspect to this article was that the music player did not have to be playing or even turned on for interference to occur and that the interference did not come from the device but rather from the harmless-looking earbuds. Up till now, it was understanding that devices turned off or to some kind of passive setting did not pose an interference risk.

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What the study looks like is that if a someone has a transported music player, such as an iPod (iPod is just one of the best known types but there are many grands) and if the earbuds used with the device are placed in close presence to the the upper chest area where the pacemaker is implanted, the earbuds might interfere with the device.

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This is not a far-fetched scenario. When a someone with this kind of transported music player is not listening to it, it's not unusual to drape the earbuds over the neck (sort of like the way doctors "wear" a stethoscope). That can put the earbuds right over the implant site.

Apparently, interference does not occur when the earbuds are in the ears or when the earbuds are kept away from the implant site--such as in a purse or backpack or even hip pocket.

Interference occurs when signals in the air get picked up by the pacemaker. Pacemakers have very "big ears." They listen for electrical signals. In fact, that is how pacemakers monitor the heart--they track its electrical activity and rejoinder to it. While this usually works pretty well, an occasional stray electrical signal can cause the pacemaker to "think" it is hearing something the heart is doing when, in reality, it is sensing electrical interference, something doctors have nicknamed "noise."

Most pacemaker patients are told to avoid the most common sources of interference--things like arc welding equipment, bumper cars, commercial magnets, and being very close to high-tension lines. However, stray signals can sometimes interfere with pacemaker performance. Stray signals can come from small electronic devices (like earbuds), metal detectors, dentists' drills and so on. While such interference is not common, it can occur.

In most situations, the interference does not last very long. The pacemaker may start pacing or acting inappropriately because it doesn't elaborate the stray signals correctly, but if the source of interference is removed, the pacemaker typically resumes normal operation. If a pacemaker someone starts to feel lightheaded, woozy, or just peculiar in situations where they may be potential interference (around heavy machinery, unavoidable power tools, safety checkpoints), just stepping out of range can stop the interference.

Pacemakers are sensitive, but not all that sensitive. A source of interference far from a pacemaker patient does not pose a risk. For instance, most pacemaker manufacturers suggest pacemaker habitancy not to "linger" under a metal detector, but pacemaker patients do not have to avoid going near them.

If interference persists over a long time, the pacemaker may do something called "reset" or "backup" or "safety pacing." (This function is more or less the same in all brands of pacemakers except that dissimilar manufacturers call it by dissimilar names.) When the pacemaker thinks that there is interference is going on and it lasts for a unavoidable estimate of time, the pacemaker will automatically revert to a special type of pacemaker behavior that doctors call "asynchronous pacing." Asynchronous pacing is not the most sophisticated pacing prescription, but it gets the job done--it assures quarterly consistent pacing support.

If a pacemaker patient is exposed to interference long enough to "reset" the pacemaker, he or she will need to go to the pacemaker doctor to get the pacemaker reprogrammed. This is a very short and painless step that involves the doctor turning off the reset function and pushing a button on a remote device called a programmer to resume the old settings.

Pacemaker patients who love their transported music players need to take a few simple precautions. Now if having and using a transported music player is part of your lifestyle that you legitimately cannot live without, you should make an appointment to discuss with your pacemaker doctor how to do this as safely as possible. On the other hand, just holding the earbuds from your music player away from the pacemaker ... Even if the device is not playing or turned off ... You should not experience any "noise" or interference.

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Thursday, June 14, 2012

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012

flourishing Pin Brazing

The key to flourishing Pin Brazing as with original Brazing techniques relies upon many key factors and there are some main factors, but when it comes to Pin Brazing there are just five areas on which I primarily focus when providing training classes or presentations. These are Power Supply, covering preparing for your connection, covering preparing for your Earth Device, having the precise Adjustment Setup and finally Operator Proficiency. The above factors can often be overlooked individually, often creating inadequate results and expensive delays so it is foremost that both operators and companies ensure that they have either received or made provision for training and certification by a qualified, experienced Instructor.

Not wanting to make this record into an 'instruction manual' it is my intention to focus on in more detail why some of the above factors are imperative considerations in both Pin Brazing goods found and development and the observation that must be given when taking the responsibility to found and pioneer these innovative processes.

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Connection Design.

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Brazed joints using Silver based Filler metals should always have a capillary gap into which the molten filler metal can flow. Joint compel will vary with the joint gap and the degree of overlap in the middle of connection type and parent metal, joint clearances of 0.03 to 0.08 mm (0.0012 to 0.0031 in) are recommended for the best capillary performance and joint strength.During the Pin Brazing process, brazing material is drawn into the joint which is caused by the attraction in the middle of the molecules of the brazing material and the molecules of the metal covering to be joined. This will only work if: The covering of the metal is clean, the clearance in the middle of the metal surfaces is precise and the metal at the joint area is hot sufficient to allow the Pin Brazing material to evenly flow. connection methods such as Crimp Terminals should be precision artificial to ensure optimum capillary gap for joint compel and integrity, whilst also allowing excess heat created while initiation of the Pin Brazing Arc to flow freely away from the Substrate material in order reducing and unnecessary damage or increased Heat Affected Zone (Haz).

Brazing Pins and their respective Alloys should be selected on their suitability for a singular application. observation should be given to the substrate design, the parent metal, the brazing process and the ergonomics of the operation. The use of Cadmium free, high Silver, free flowing filler Alloys with low melting ranges are significant in the development of Brazing Pins, which aid in the shielding of the Parent material while the Arc process and allow for an increased flow maximizing in the available covering area, which in turn allows for a more great electrical and mechanical connection.

In the found of Brazing Pins the selection of flux is as foremost as the selection of filler metal. The working range of the flux must be compatible with the brazing temperature, must have suitable life at climatic characteristic and should be suitable for both the heating recipe (in the case of Pin Brazing, Arc climatic characteristic could be in excess of 2000 Degrees Celsius) and the parent metals and become active below the melting point of the brazing alloy. It must stay active right through the brazing cycle removing any oxides formed on the parent metal. Observations should be made if the flux residues appear blackened and glassy as the flux has probably been exhausted while heating. This could be the result of contaminated flux (from very old or incorrectly stored Brazing Pins) or more likely the components have been overheated, possibly due to an incorrect adjustment setting on the Brazing Gun or an un-charged Battery Pack.

Pre-cleaning.

To promote good bonding the connection substrate should be free from grease and any covering oxide prior to brazing. Grease and oil are best removed using a degreasing solvent. Prior to this Pin Brazing Ancillaries can be used which will often include covering preparing tool such as Die Grinders and Angle Grinders fitted with Carbide Burrs, Mounted Points or polisher Flap Discs. These mechanical covering preparing devices are intended to be utilized sparingly in order to not cause disruption to the substrate thickness or generate uneven pits or troughs which may interfere with Capillary performance or Arc length. covering oxide can also be removed with a medium grade polisher cloth. observation should also to be given to Consumable quality, as with Substrate material, components which have been exposed to moisture or grease can be the cause of defective brazes results. Care should be taken at all times to ensure that Consumables remain sealed in their original containers until required for use and should be inspected for covering oxidization or grease prior to being used.

Battery Status.

Most accepted Pin Brazing Systems control using a 36-42volt Battery Pack or Welding Generator set up to mirror the characteristics of the Battery pack. True observation and testing has gone in to find batteries that are suitable for the greatest operational demands of the Pin Brazing Process and the equally greatest environments in which the process is utilised. Therefore only pre-approved batteries must be used, these battery types or their details will only be obtainable from your Pin Brazing supplier or tool constructor and it is foremost to note that different Pin Brazing tool Manufacturers do utilise different Battery types, which are attuned for use with only their respective tools and consumables. As a user batteries must be cared for in accordance with your user manual, and even under heavy usage could last for many years.

Electrobraze Pin Brazing tool and Consumables have been industrialized through palpate for use in greatest environments and remote locations worldwide through broad field and trouble-shooting palpate in the Oil, Gas, Rail and Utilities industries. What's more all pieces of tool have been industrialized for In-field operator convenience being both lightweight and practical. Using electromechanical technology for a safer, more practical, rugged and trustworthy system. Which, ensures that operators working in the field can be safe and have full control over their tool and maintenance. goods facts and supplementary reading on Pin Brazing and the Pin Brazing Process can be found at http://www.electrobraze.com/index.php?p=1_5_About.

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Monday, June 11, 2012

building Sand Moulding Boxes For The Hobby Foundry

Green sand and other types of casting sands are commonly housed in what foundry moulders refer to as flasks which are nothing more than fabricated timber or steel boxes without a bottom or lid.
The mould box consists of two parts and they are split into two halves which are stacked one on top of the other, the two halves are referred to as the cope which is the top part, and the drag flask which is the bottom part of the box.

Suitable mould boxes for a hobby foundry can be constructed by the practical home engineer from timber or steel. Some people may find that constructing mould boxes from steel a slight more difficult than timber. It depends whether you feel more comfortable working with whether timber or steel, and also the kind of tools you currently have in your workshop.

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You may select to build your mould boxes from timber, but if you want to compose from steel then you should do that. The writer of this record built four 10 X 12" steel mould boxes many years ago, and they are as good as the day they were built...timber
may not have the long term durableness of steel.

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The mould box scheme described here, deals with constructing the cope & drag mould boxes from light mild steel. A good size for hobby work is a mould box measuring 9 X 10 " (250 X 30mm). But you can make them larger or smaller to suit your requirements.

Mould boxes can be made to suit the size of castings you will be making, the size above will serve the hobby foundry laborer throughout the learning period hobby metal casting.

Most home workshop owners commonly posses some of the basic tools noted in the following list, you wont need to own them all, as many tools can be hired from equipment hire suppliers, but you'll need most listed below to build a set of steel mould
boxes for your hobby foundry.

Your equipment should include: Bench vice - Ball peen, or engineer's hammer - Hacksaw - Arc or Mig welder. At least two 90 Deg angle angle clamps - One 4"Angle abrasive - Bench drill, or hand held power drill - Oxy welding set with small welding tip.
(A charcoal forge will suffice to heat 5/16" Ms rod)Or a small propane heating torch.

None of the above tools are difficult to operate, but of course you will need welding skills to be able to weld the boxes together, but if you can't weld, I'm sure you know someone who can.(But normal security procdures should be followed of course when using any tool.)

The steel boxes can be made in a quadrilateral shape, or rectangular shape, rectangular seems to work good than square, so we will stay with that format. The first thing to do is to clean up the rough cut edges of the steel lengths that will make the side of the boxes.

They are then assembled with the 90Deg clamp and considered tack welded together. Clamp and set up two pieces at a time, one short -one long, repeat the carrying out for the other two. Go straight through the same steps for the second box.

Check both sets boxes for squareness before completing the final welding operation. Once that is done. The most difficult part about building mould boxes is locating the register pins accurately. For each box you will need to make two long tapered
locating or alignment pins, which are fixed (welded) onto the drag box at each end, and four short flat pieces of flat steel, which act as the pin register holder, and the pin locator.

All four of the plates should be ganged together in the drill vice to enable literal, drilling of the hole for the pin locator.
To understand this principle fully the step-by-step process is explained using pictures and text in the free ebook "How To Build Mould Boxes" that is included with the hobby foundry ebook holder Metal Casting Made Easy.

Once the steel lugs are securely welded to the boxes, all you need to do is to bend up some steel lifting handles from small diameter rod, they need to be welded to the cope (top) mould box; make them a comfortable fit for your hands, as you will be the one using them the most.

To stop the moulding sand from dropping out of the box after ramming, plainly weld some short lengths of 5/16" Dia rods on the inside of each box, about mid distance from the top, that is all you need to stop any sand dropping out of the mould box during
sand moulding operations.

Another essential item required for sufficient moulding is a bottom board, or moulders board, it is made from thick ply and is larger in size than the flask or box that is being rammed up. It also has two 1.5" X 1.5" quadrilateral timber ribs attached to the underside to provide a solid base, and provides a collect hand grip to pick up the mould boxes to turn them over during the moulding process.

The complete hobby foundry ebook holder is designed to give you all the data required to set up your own hobby foundry. The info will enable you to start creating those wonderful castings you have been dreaming about. You should not rush the learning; it may take you any weeks or months to make at all come together for you.

Once you have your mould boxes (Timber or Steel) you can then start to institution setting patterns & ramming up sand in both boxes, and understanding the methods and techniques of sand moulding, it is a lot of fun and 99% of people get tremendous personal satisfaction from hobby metal casting.

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  • Accu-Set amperage indicator for accurately controlling amperage or heat output
  • Infinite current control allows the operator to adjust output by as little as 1-amp increments
  • Forced-draft cooling fan runs continuously and helps to extend the life of the power source

Hobart 500502 Stickmate 205 AC Stick (SMAW) Arc Welding Power Source Overview

Hobart's STICKMATE models are the top performers in their class. 205AC model comes with the Accu-Set infinite amperage control, weld time increases up to 100% with decreased output. Recommended to cut steel, stainless steel, and cast iron. U.S.A. Volts: 230, Amps: 30-205, Duty Cycle: 20% at 165 Amps, 100% at 90 Amps, Amperage Adjustments: Accu-Set infinite current control; 1A increments, Range Selection: Single, Weldable Metals: Steel, stainless steel, cast iron, Weld Thickness (in.): 3/8in., Electrode Size (in.): 1/16-5/32, Electrode Cable Length (ft.): 12, Clamp Cable Length (ft.): 10, Power Cord (ft.): 5, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 12 3/4 in. x 17 1/2 x 18 3/4

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